The rich fineries of the eighteenth century are on sumptous display now at The Frick Collection in a new exhibition entitled "Gainsborough The Fashion of Portraiture," which features 25 paintings by the great English painter Thomas Gainsborough, who lived from 1727 to 1788.
Gainsborough was one of the great portrait painters of his time, along with Joshua Reynolds, and this is the first exhibition of his portraits to be mounted in New York City. The show is housed in the new exhibition space at The Frick Collection,
made possible by the recent expansion of the museum. You can read my story for Frederic magazine about how this great New York institution started as the home of the Frick family.
Henry Clay Frick himself was a great admirer of Gainsborough's paintings, stated Aimee Ng, the Peter Jay Sharp chief curator at The Frick Collection and organizer of the exhibition, at the preview. "In fact he collected them most avidly," she said. Three paintings on display are from the museum's permanent collection and the rest are on loan in this one-of-kind gathering of portraits.
The focus of the show is on fashion and how clothing expressed the identity of the sitter. Gainsborough's painting style has been described as a "gossamer web of sheer paint'" and his approach perfectly captured the textures and colors of eighteenth century fabrics including silks, brocades, velvets and laces. Gainsborough's painting expressed the fashionable, changing styles of the day, and the artist's loose, feathery brushstrokes brought movement and life to his paintings. The moody and atmospheric portraits have a lot of personality and romance. I was entranced. The show is a treat.
Above is the lovely Grace Elliott. She was a controversial character for having scandalous affairs with prominent men and she reportedly gave birth to a child fathered by the Prince of Wales, later King George IV. What a face she had! Here she looks directly at the viewer, her languid eyes framed by graceful eyebrows. A black ribbon at her chin falls seductively to meet a blue jewel and pink bow at her shapely bosom.
Here above is another, earlier, more conservative, less provocative painting of Grace Elliott by Gainsborough. Her statuesque height is accentuated by a towering powdered hairstyle a la Marie Antointette and the high empire waist of the shimmering gold silk gown that falls in long folds and shines as she moves. A white silk petticoat rustles underneath.
The above painting of Mrs. Samuel Moody tells a sad story. Gainsborough originally had painted Elizabeth Moody alone. After she died at age 26 of tuberculosis, her widower asked Gainsborough to repaint it to add their two children, creating an imaginary reunion. This painting displays so well the artist's mastery of rendering the essence of fashion including the pale gown tied with a light green sash and the blue jacket wrapped in a gossamer violet shawl, a delicate and beautiful combination of colors and textures.
Captain Augustus John Hervey's authoritative naval uniform reflects his status and achievements. The captain is shown leaning on a gigantic anchor, as one does. His tailored navy blue wool coat is edged in glinting gold braid and his cream colored waistcoat of silk or satin fastens with gold buttons that catch the light. Peaking out from the tailored jacket sleeves are soft ruffled lace cuffs. Navy blue plus gold and neutrals is a handsome combination that never goes out of style.
The end of the exhibition finds the last self-portrait that Gainsborough painted in 1787 when he was 60 and one year before he died. It features the loose, sketchy brushwork that was his signature. He is dressed dandily in a green tailored jacket and a buff-colored waist coat that are softened by a flowing cravat tied at the the neck. Most prominent though are Gainsborough's knowing eyes, which so well saw the fashion of the time and how his subjects wanted to be portrayed in this delicious exhibition.
